Granada
The Alhambra against the Sierra Nevada, free tapas with every beer, and the most photographed sunset view in Spain

About Granada
Granada is the city where the Alhambra sits on a hill above the old town and the Sierra Nevada sits behind it with snow on the peaks, and the combination of Islamic palace, Baroque cathedral, and mountain backdrop is so improbable that it takes a day to believe you are actually standing there. The Alhambra (EUR 19, book 2-3 months ahead, this is not optional, tickets sell out) is the reason most people come, and it delivers. The Nasrid Palaces have the most intricate Islamic decoration in Europe, the Generalife gardens are designed to sound like water, and the views from the walls cover the Albaicin, the old Moorish quarter, cascading down the opposite hill in a tumble of white houses and cypress trees.
Granada is also the last city in Spain where tapas are still free. You order a beer (EUR 2.50-3) and a tapa arrives with it, unbidden. Order a second beer, a different tapa arrives. This is not a promotional gimmick, it is how Granada works, and a full evening of bar-hopping through the Realejo or the streets around Plaza Nueva costs EUR 12-15 and leaves you full.
The Albaicin is the neighbourhood that justifies staying two nights. The old Moorish quarter climbs the hill opposite the Alhambra in a maze of narrow lanes, whitewashed houses, carmenes (walled garden villas), tea houses, and the Mirador de San Nicolas, which has the most photographed view in Spain: the Alhambra against the Sierra Nevada at sunset.
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Things to do in Granada
Experiences worth booking ahead
Vetted tours and tickets we'd send a friend to. The ones worth reserving before you arrive.
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From the blog
Practical bits, answered
Book 2-3 months ahead in spring (March-June) and summer (July-August). October and November can sometimes be booked 2-4 weeks ahead. December-February is the quietest period: 1-2 weeks is usually sufficient. Buy at alhambra-patronato.es (the official site). Your Nasrid Palaces time slot is fixed: missing it means you cannot enter regardless of having a ticket.
Order any drink at a bar (beer EUR 2.50-3, wine EUR 2-3, soft drink included) and a tapa arrives automatically. You do not choose the tapa: the bar decides. At a good bar it might be croquetas, prawns, or a mini portion of the daily stew. At a basic bar it will be bread with tomato. Move between bars every 1-2 drinks. A full evening costs EUR 12-15 total and you will eat a complete dinner's worth of food.
The Albaicin is steep cobblestone and tiring in summer heat. Wear shoes with grip: the cobblestones are slippery when wet. The walk from Plaza Nueva to Mirador San Nicolas takes 25-35 minutes uphill. A taxi from Plaza Nueva to San Nicolas costs EUR 6-8. In July and August, go in the early morning (before 10 AM) when the temperature is below 30C and the lanes are empty.
Yes, on clear days from October to May the snow-covered Sierra Nevada peaks (the highest in Spain at 3,479m) are visible from multiple points in the city. The Mirador San Nicolas is the best vantage: the Alhambra is in the foreground with the Sierra Nevada rising behind it. In summer, snow is only visible on the highest peaks. Ski season at the Sierra Nevada resort (45 min from Granada by bus) runs December to April.
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