Florence · San Lorenzo & Mercato Centrale

Nerbone

Historic stall inside Mercato Centrale operating since 1872, serving lampredotto sandwiches and bollito (boiled meat) to market workers and savvy visitors.

About Nerbone

Historic stall inside Mercato Centrale operating since 1872, serving lampredotto sandwiches and bollito (boiled meat) to market workers and savvy visitors. Stand at the counter or grab a communal table. Closes at 2pm.

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The details

Practical bits

WalkingMinimal walking

The place

Getting there

Address

Piazza del Mercato Centrale, 50123 Firenze FI, Italy

Neighborhood

San Lorenzo & Mercato Centrale →

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Good to know

Tips, answered

Order the lampredotto 'bagnato' (dipped in the cooking broth) for maximum flavor and authentic Florentine experience.

Plan for about 30 minutes. Morning visits are typically less crowded.

Nerbone is in the San Lorenzo & Mercato Centrale neighborhood of Florence. The address is Piazza del Mercato Centrale, 50123 Firenze FI, Italy. The area is well-served by metro.

Morning visits, especially early, mean fewer crowds and better light for photos. Weekdays are significantly quieter than weekends.

Closed on Sunday. Check the official website for holiday closures and special hours.

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San Lorenzo is the parish church of the Medici family, rebuilt by Brunelleschi from 1419, and the complex includes some of Michelangelo's most important architectural and sculptural work. The church (EUR 9.50) has Brunelleschi's Old Sacristy and Michelangelo's New Sacristy (also called the Medici Chapel), where the tombs of Lorenzo and Giuliano de' Medici are crowned by Michelangelo's allegorical figures of Day, Night, Dawn, and Dusk. The staircase leading to the Laurentian Library (EUR 9.50 separate or combined) was designed by Michelangelo and is considered a mannerist masterpiece - the staircase flows like a cascade of stone. The outdoor leather market around the church is commercial but lively.

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Museum

Cenacolo di Sant'Apollonia

This tiny former convent houses Andrea del Castagno's 1447 Last Supper fresco, one of Renaissance art's most psychologically intense works. You'll find yourself face to face with a masterpiece that influenced Leonardo da Vinci himself. The fresco covers an entire wall of what was once the Benedictine nuns' dining hall, showing Judas isolated on the viewer's side of the table while the other apostles react with shock and anger. The painted marble backdrop and brutal emotional realism make this work more raw and powerful than most religious art in Florence. The museum consists of just two small rooms, making your visit intimate and focused. You'll have the fresco mostly to yourself, able to study every detail of the apostles' expressions and Castagno's revolutionary perspective techniques. The silence in the former refectory adds gravity to the scene. Above the Last Supper, three smaller frescoes show the Crucifixion, Deposition, and Resurrection, completing the narrative. Most guidebooks barely mention this place, which keeps crowds away but means you might walk right past it. Admission is completely free, making it one of Florence's best art bargains. The visit takes 20 minutes maximum, so don't plan your whole morning around it. Pair it with the nearby Mercato Centrale or use it as a quiet break between the chaos of San Lorenzo's markets.

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