Colmar
Pastel half-timbered houses on canals, the Isenheim Altarpiece, tarte flambee in a winstub, and a Christmas market the locals prefer

About Colmar
Colmar is the town that looks like someone illustrated a children's book and then accidentally built it. The half-timbered houses along the Lauch River are painted in pastels that should clash and somehow do not: mint green next to salmon pink next to butter yellow, with geranium boxes on every window and reflections in the canal that double the effect. Petite Venise (Little Venice) is the district where this reaches peak absurdity, and the boat rides through the canals (EUR 7, 30 minutes) are touristy and completely worth it because the perspective from the water is different from the bridges.
The Unterlinden Museum (EUR 13) is the reason art historians come to Colmar. The Isenheim Altarpiece by Matthias Grunewald, painted in the 1510s, is one of the most powerful works of art in Europe. The crucifixion panel is violent and human in a way that nothing else from this period matches, and the resurrection panel glows with a light that the museum's architects designed the entire building around. The museum also has a Cranach, a Holbein, and a good collection of Alsatian folk art, but the altarpiece is what you came for.
The food is Alsatian at its most concentrated. Tarte flambee (EUR 10-14) at every winstub, choucroute (EUR 16-22, the Alsatian version with smoked pork belly, sausages, and potatoes), and kougelhopf (the Alsatian bundt cake with almonds and raisins, EUR 3-4 a slice). The Marche Couvert (covered market, Tuesday-Saturday mornings) has charcuterie, Munster cheese that smells like a dare and tastes like a reward, and the kind of local wine that never leaves the region. The Christmas market (late November-December) is smaller than Strasbourg's but considered by locals to be better because it has not yet been overwhelmed by tour buses.
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Stay in Colmar
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Things to do in Colmar
Experiences worth booking ahead
Vetted tours and tickets we'd send a friend to. The ones worth reserving before you arrive.
Travel guides
From the blog
Practical bits, answered
TER train, 35 minutes, EUR 13-16 each way. Trains run every 30 minutes during the day. The Colmar train station is a 15-minute walk from Petite Venise and the old town. No car needed within Colmar itself - the centre is compact and pedestrianised.
One full day covers the old town, Petite Venise, and the Unterlinden Museum comfortably. Two days lets you add the wine villages (Eguisheim 15 minutes, Riquewihr 25 minutes, Kaysersberg 20 minutes by car). If you only have half a day, prioritise the Unterlinden Museum and a walk through Petite Venise.
Late November to late December. Colmar has 5 markets spread across the old town. The children's market at Place des Six Montagnes Noires is the most charming. Book accommodation early - Colmar is smaller than Strasbourg and fills up faster. Weekday visits are significantly less crowded.
Tarte flambee (EUR 10-14, the basic creme fraiche/onion/lardon version is the one to order), choucroute garnie (EUR 16-22, order in winter), kougelhopf (the Alsatian bundt cake, EUR 3-4 a slice from bakeries). The Marche Couvert (Tuesday-Saturday mornings) has Munster cheese and charcuterie. Any winstub in the Quartier des Tanneurs will serve honest Alsatian food at reasonable prices.
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