Café Restaurant Amsterdam

Grand cafe in a monumental former water pumping station in Oost, with soaring Art Nouveau architecture, stained glass windows, and ornate ironwork rising three stories above your head. The building alone is worth the visit. Built in 1897 to pump drinking water from the dunes to the city, it was converted into a restaurant in 1996 and the industrial grandeur is beautifully preserved.

The menu is reliable Dutch-international fare: bitterballen, steak, fish of the day, good salads. Nothing that will make a food critic write home, but everything is well-executed and fairly priced for the setting. The real draw is eating under that extraordinary ceiling. The mezzanine level gives you the best perspective on the architecture, so request an upstairs table when you arrive. On warm days the waterside terrace opens up and faces the Oosterpark across the canal.

The location in Oost means it's off the tourist circuit, which keeps the crowd local and the prices honest. It's a 10-minute tram ride from Centrum. Combine it with a walk through Oosterpark (Amsterdam's second-largest park, much less crowded than Vondelpark) or a visit to the Tropenmuseum across the street, which covers Dutch colonial history and global cultures. Sunday brunch is popular with young Amsterdam families. The building hosts events and private parties, so check that the main dining room is open before making a special trip.