Venice
118 islands, 400 bridges, EUR 1.50 cicchetti at a bacaro, and a Grand Canal that stops you in your tracks

About Venice
Venice is the city that should not exist and knows it. 118 islands connected by 400 bridges over 150 canals, built on wooden pilings driven into the mud of a lagoon, sinking at a rate that scientists measure in millimetres and politicians measure in excuses. The acqua alta floods are getting worse, and the city now charges a day-tripper entry fee (EUR 5) because 30 million visitors a year were destroying the place. None of this changes the fact that the first time you step out of Santa Lucia train station and see the Grand Canal, you will stop walking and stare.
The tourist Venice is San Marco: the Basilica (free, the golden mosaics covering every surface are Byzantine and overwhelming), the Doge's Palace (EUR 30, the council chambers, Tintoretto's Paradise, the Bridge of Sighs), the Campanile (EUR 10, the view covers the whole lagoon). All of this is magnificent, all of it is packed, and all of it is more expensive than the rest of the city. A coffee at Caffè Florian in the piazza costs EUR 12 standing, EUR 20 sitting. This is not a scam. This is Florian's pricing since 1720.
The Venice that justifies the trip is the one you find by getting lost, which in Venice is not a metaphor but a transportation strategy. Walk away from San Marco in any direction and within 10 minutes you will be in a neighbourhood where the laundry hangs across the canals, the bacari serve cicchetti (Venetian tapas, EUR 1.50-3 each) with a glass of house wine for EUR 2-3, and the only other people are Venetians going about their day. Dorsoduro has the Peggy Guggenheim Collection and the Accademia Gallery. Cannaregio has the Jewish Ghetto (the world's first, 1516) and the best-value restaurants. The vaporetto number 1 down the Grand Canal is the best EUR 9.50 sightseeing tour in Europe.
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Stay in Venice
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Things to do in Venice
Experiences worth booking ahead
Vetted tours and tickets we'd send a friend to. The ones worth reserving before you arrive.
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From the blog
Practical bits, answered
Two full days covers the essentials: one for San Marco sestiere (Basilica, Doge's Palace, Campanile, then getting lost toward San Polo for the Rialto market and cicchetti crawl), one for Dorsoduro and Cannaregio (Peggy Guggenheim or Accademia, the Jewish Ghetto, bacari on the fondamente in the evening). A third day lets you add Burano and Torcello (the coloured houses and the Byzantine mosaics, 45 minutes by vaporetto). Two nights minimum, three is better.
Venice charges a day-tripper access fee (EUR 5) on selected days (mostly weekends and peak days April-July). It applies if you arrive between 8:30 AM and 4 PM and are not staying overnight. You book in advance at cfrm.ve.it. If you are staying in a hotel in Venice, the fee does not apply. The fee was introduced to manage overcrowding, not as a general admission price.
Cicchetti are the Venetian small plates: slices of bread with toppings, fried polpette (meatballs), baccalà mantecato (creamed salt cod), sarde in saor (sweet and sour sardines). They cost EUR 1.50-3 each and are served at bacari (traditional Venetian wine bars). You stand at the bar, order an ombra (small glass of house wine, EUR 1.50-2.50) or a prosecco (EUR 2-3), eat 4-5 cicchetti, and move on to the next bacaro. The best are around the Rialto market: Al'Arco, Cantina Do Spade, Do Mori.
Walking and vaporetto (water bus). Buy a 24-hour vaporetto pass (EUR 25) rather than singles (EUR 9.50 each). Line 1 goes the full length of the Grand Canal with 16 stops. Line 2 is faster but misses most stops. The traghetto gondola ferries (EUR 2, standing) cross the Grand Canal at several points between bridges. There are only 4 bridges across the Grand Canal (Scalzi, Rialto, Accademia, Costituzione), so you will walk in circles. This is correct and intended.
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