Athens · Piraeus & Coastal Athens

Margaro

Margaro is Athens' most uncompromising seafood taverna, serving exactly two items since 1967: fried fish and fried squid.

About Margaro

Margaro is Athens' most uncompromising seafood taverna, serving exactly two items since 1967: fried fish and fried squid. The tiny space in Piraeus seats maybe 30 people at communal tables, and the kitchen produces the crispiest, most perfectly executed fried seafood you'll find anywhere in Greece. You're not coming here for ambiance or variety, you're coming because locals have been lining up for over 50 years for food this good.

The experience is beautifully simple: you squeeze into whatever seat becomes available, order your fish or squid (or both), and wait while the kitchen works its magic in olive oil so hot it creates an impossibly light, non-greasy coating. The fish arrives whole and golden, the squid tender inside its crispy exterior, accompanied by nothing but lemon wedges and maybe some bread. Conversations flow between tables as everyone shares the same excellent meal, and the turnover is quick since there's no lingering over elaborate courses.

Most food guides romanticize this place, but here's the truth: it's cramped, loud, and you might wait 45 minutes for a table. The fish costs around €12-15 per portion, squid about €10, making it decent value but not cheap. Skip this if you want comfort or atmosphere, but if you want to understand why Athenians obsess over perfectly fried seafood, there's nowhere better.

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The details

Practical bits

WalkingMinimal walking

The place

Getting there

Address

Marias Chatzikiriakou 126, Pireas 185 38, Greece

Neighborhood

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Good to know

Tips, answered

Arrive exactly at opening time (12:30pm for lunch, 7:30pm for dinner) and put your name on the handwritten list by the door to minimize waiting

Most tourists order both fish and squid thinking they need variety, but locals usually stick to just fish since the portions are generous and the squid, while good, isn't quite as spectacular

Sit at the communal tables near the kitchen if possible, you'll get served faster and can watch the frying technique that makes this place legendary

Plan for about 1h 15m.

Margaro is in the Piraeus & Coastal Athens neighborhood of Athens. The address is Marias Chatzikiriakou 126, Pireas 185 38, Greece. The area is well-served by metro.

This works well at any time of day, though mornings tend to be quieter. Weekdays are less crowded than weekends.

Closed on Tuesday. Check the official website for holiday closures and special hours.

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Park & Garden

Stavros Niarchos Park

This 21-hectare park wraps around the Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center, complete with 1,500 olive trees, cypress groves, and sprawling lavender fields that are particularly fragrant in spring. You're walking on the world's largest green roof, which rises up from sea level to 32 meters high. The canal running through the center attracts families with ducks and turtles, while the Great Lawn hosts a range of activities, including yoga classes and outdoor movie screenings. The experience feels like stepping into a countryside just 4km from central Athens. You'll climb wooden boardwalks through aromatic herb gardens, pass joggers on the canal path, and find families picnicking under olive trees. The Lighthouse at the summit offers genuine panoramic views to the sea and Acropolis. The playground areas are a hit with kids, while the amphitheater hosts free concerts most evenings. The underground spaces provide welcome air conditioning during summer heat. Most guides don't mention that this place gets busy on weekends, especially the canal area where parking can be chaotic. Avoid the crowded lower sections and head straight up the slope for better views and fewer tourists. The free events are of good quality, but arrive 30 minutes early for popular concerts. Parking costs €2 per hour in the underground garage, but street parking nearby is free if you're willing to walk 10 minutes.

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Landmark

Mikrolimano

Mikrolimano wraps around a perfectly semicircular harbor in Piraeus, where traditional fishing boats bob next to sleek yachts and waterfront tavernas serve some of Athens' best seafood. You'll walk a pedestrian promenade that curves along the water's edge, passing restaurants with outdoor terraces and catching glimpses of fishermen mending nets. The small harbor creates an almost lake-like calm that feels worlds away from Piraeus' commercial port chaos just minutes away. The experience flows naturally from stroll to meal to swim if you time it right. You start at one end of the crescent and work your way around, with the blue-green water always on your left and a wall of restaurants on your right. Sunday afternoons bring extended Greek family lunches that stretch for hours, complete with multiple seafood courses and animated conversations echoing across the water. The atmosphere shifts from quiet morning fishing activity to lively afternoon socializing as the day progresses. Most travel guides oversell this as some undiscovered paradise, but it's actually quite touristy and pricey. Expect to pay 45-60 EUR per person for a full seafood meal at the waterfront spots. The restaurants closest to the main entrance charge the most for identical food, so walk toward the far end for better value. Skip the overhyped Varoulko Seaside and head to the smaller family-run places where locals actually eat.

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Museum

Archaeological Museum of Piraeus

The Archaeological Museum of Piraeus houses some of Greece's most exceptional bronze sculptures, recovered from ancient shipwrecks in the harbor during the 1950s. You'll find the 4th-century BC Apollo of Piraeus and Artemis statues here, along with grave monuments and maritime artifacts spanning 3,000 years. The collection tells the story of Piraeus as ancient Athens' vital port, with pieces ranging from Minoan pottery to Roman marble works. The museum feels intimate after the crowds at the Acropolis Museum. You'll start upstairs with ceramics and grave stelae, then descend to the basement where the bronze masterpieces wait in climate-controlled cases. The Apollo statue dominates the space with its perfect proportions and mysterious smile, while the Artemis showcases detail in her draped clothing. The lighting here is excellent, letting you appreciate the craftsmanship up close. Most guides skip this place entirely, which is honestly their loss. Entry costs €3 free on the first Sunday of each month, and you'll have the bronzes practically to yourself on weekdays. If you're short on time, skip the upper floors and head straight to the basement. The museum shop sells quality reproductions if you want a memento that isn't mass-produced tourist merchandise.

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Cultural Site

Piraeus Municipal Theatre

The Piraeus Municipal Theatre is Greece's second oldest municipal theatre, built in 1885 when Piraeus was booming as the country's main port. You'll find an authentic neoclassical theatre that locals regularly attend, hosting Greek National Opera productions, contemporary theatre, and ballet performances in a horseshoe auditorium. The interior showcases original frescoed ceilings, red velvet seating, and ornate balconies that evoke 19th century European theatre culture. Attending a performance here feels both intimate and grand simultaneously. The 600 seat auditorium creates perfect acoustics where every whisper carries, while the beautifully restored interior makes even mediocre productions seem special. You'll sit alongside Piraeus locals who've been coming for decades, creating an authentic Greek cultural experience that's different from tourist-focused venues. The lobby buzzes with animated Greek conversations during intermissions. Most visitors never attend this theatre because it's not in central Athens, which is exactly why it's worth taking the metro. Opera tickets start around 15 EUR compared to 40 EUR at Athens' main venues, and the quality is often superior. Skip the expensive Athens Concert Hall and book here instead. The theatre only performs October through May, so summer visitors miss out entirely.

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Beach

Glyfada Beach

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Tour

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