Val d'Orcia · Cypress Roads & Countryside

Taverna dei Barbi

Restaurant on the grounds of Fattoria dei Barbi winery serving estate-raised meats and wine produced from surrounding vineyards.

About Taverna dei Barbi

Restaurant on the grounds of Fattoria dei Barbi winery serving estate-raised meats and wine produced from surrounding vineyards. The signature dish is scottiglia, a slow-cooked mixed meat stew traditionally made by Montalcino farmers. Brunello wine from the estate is available by the glass starting at EUR 8.

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The place

Getting there

Address

Localita Podernovi, 170, 53024 Montalcino SI, Italy

Neighborhood

Cypress Roads & Countryside →

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Good to know

Tips, answered

Reserve a table on the terrace for sunset views over the vineyard rows and combine your meal with a cellar tour at 5pm.

Plan for about 2 hours.

Taverna dei Barbi is in the Cypress Roads & Countryside neighborhood of Val d'Orcia. The address is Localita Podernovi, 170, 53024 Montalcino SI, Italy. The area is well-served by metro.

This works well at any time of day, though mornings tend to be quieter. Weekdays are less crowded than weekends.

Around the corner

Nearby in Cypress Roads & Countryside

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Landmark

Bagno Vignoni

Bagno Vignoni is probably the most surreal village you'll encounter in Tuscany: the entire main piazza is filled with a massive rectangular thermal pool that's been bubbling at 49°C since Roman times. Steam rises constantly from the mineral-rich water while Renaissance loggias and weathered stone buildings frame this ancient bathing site. You can't swim in the main pool anymore (it's protected), but the sight of this steaming lake surrounded by medieval architecture feels like stumbling into a fantasy film set. The village itself takes maybe 20 minutes to explore completely, but the atmosphere keeps you lingering longer than expected. Steam drifts across the piazza creating an almost mystical mood, especially in cooler months when the contrast is most dramatic. The handful of restaurants and cafes have terraces overlooking the thermal pool, so you'll find yourself nursing a coffee while watching the hypnotic steam patterns. The sound of gently bubbling water creates a surprisingly meditative backdrop. Most guides oversell this as a full morning destination when it's really a atmospheric 1-hour stop. The restaurants around the piazza are predictably overpriced (expect €15-20 for basic pasta), so eat elsewhere. The real value is in the free Parco dei Mulini below the village where thermal water cascades over ancient mill ruins and you can actually soak your feet. Skip the souvenir shops, grab your photos of the steaming piazza, then head down to the park for the genuine thermal experience.

1 hourExplore

Park & Garden

Bagni San Filippo

Bagni San Filippo delivers some of Tuscany's most dramatic natural thermal pools, where 37-48°C spring water has carved brilliant white travertine terraces into the forested hillside. The star attraction is Fosso Bianco, a stunning cascade of calcium deposits that looks like frozen waterfalls against the dark trees. You'll soak in multiple natural pools of varying temperatures, each one sculpted by centuries of mineral-rich water flow. The experience starts with a gentle 10-minute hike down forest paths to reach the main pools, where steam rises through the trees and the sulfur smell tells you you're close. The white limestone formations are genuinely spectacular, especially when sunlight filters through the canopy onto the flowing water. You'll move between different pools to find your perfect temperature, with locals often camping out in their favorites for hours. Most guides don't mention that weekends turn this place into a thermal pool party, complete with portable speakers and crowds. The free access is fantastic, but bring proper footwear since the rocks get slippery. Skip the upper pools near the parking area, they're lukewarm and unremarkable. The real magic happens downstream where fewer people venture.

2-3 hoursExplore

Landmark

Cappella della Madonna di Vitaleta

This 16th century chapel sits perfectly centered between two towering cypress trees in Val d'Orcia's golden wheat fields, creating what's arguably Tuscany's most photographed rural scene. The tiny Renaissance structure was built by Pope Pius II's family as a roadside shrine, and today it draws photographers from around the world who come for that classic Tuscan composition. You'll walk 15 minutes through working farmland on a gravel track, passing olive groves and getting close-up views of the rolling hills that UNESCO protects. The walk itself is half the experience, taking you through genuine agricultural land where tractors still work the fields and farmers wave from their doorways. When you reach the chapel, you understand immediately why it's so famous: the proportions are absolutely perfect, with the two cypresses framing the small stone building like natural columns. The light changes constantly as clouds move across the sky, and you'll find yourself taking dozens of photos as the shadows shift across the wheat. It's peaceful here, with only the sound of wind through grain and the occasional bird call. Most photography guides oversell this as a sunrise spot, but honestly, any time except harsh midday works beautifully. The walk can get muddy after rain, and your shoes will definitely get dusty. Skip it during harvest season (late June through July) when combine harvesters make the path dangerous and the wheat is gone anyway. The chapel itself is always locked, so this is purely about the exterior shot and the experience of walking through working farmland.

45 minutesExplore

Cultural Site

Tempio di San Biagio

Tempio di San Biagio stands alone in a cypress-dotted meadow below Montepulciano, one of the most perfect examples of High Renaissance architecture you'll find in Tuscany. Antonio da Sangallo the Elder designed this honey-colored travertine church in 1518, creating a masterpiece of geometric harmony with its Greek cross plan and soaring central dome. The building's isolation makes it even more striking, rising from green fields with nothing to distract from its pure proportions. You'll circle the exterior first, appreciating how the building looks perfectly balanced from every angle. The travertine stone changes color throughout the day, from pale gold in morning light to warm amber at sunset. Inside, the space feels surprisingly intimate despite the grand proportions, with simple decoration that lets the architecture speak for itself. The acoustics are remarkable, every footstep echoing softly in the vaulted spaces. Most visitors rush through in 15 minutes, but you'll want at least 30 to really absorb the craftsmanship. Entry is free, though there's sometimes a small donation box. Skip the small museum next door unless you're obsessed with Renaissance construction techniques. The real magic happens when you sit on the steps and look back toward Montepulciano perched on its hilltop, understanding exactly why Sangallo chose this spot.

30-45 minutesExplore

Viewpoint

Viale dei Cipressi Poggio Covili

This perfectly straight cypress avenue leads to a classic Tuscan farmhouse and represents everything people imagine when they think of Val d'Orcia. You'll find a double row of towering cypresses creating a natural corridor that frames the weathered stone building at the end. The trees stand like sentinels, their dark green spires contrasting beautifully with the golden rolling hills that stretch beyond. It's free to visit since you're photographing from the public road. You'll spend most of your time positioning yourself along Via Cassia to capture the perfect shot. The experience is purely visual: the geometric precision of the cypress alignment creates an almost hypnotic effect as your eye follows the trees toward the farmhouse. Late afternoon light transforms the scene completely, backlighting the building and creating long shadows that emphasize the avenue's dramatic perspective. You'll hear nothing but wind through the cypresses and perhaps the distant sound of tractors. Honestly, thirty minutes is generous unless you're a serious photographer. Most people snap their photos in ten minutes and move on. The farmhouse and grounds are strictly private property, so don't even think about walking down that tempting avenue. This spot gets busy with tour groups around 4-5 PM when the light is best, so arrive earlier or later for solitude.

15-30 minutesExplore

Park & Garden

Dopolavoro La Foce

Dopolavoro La Foce occupies a restored 1930s workers' club on one of Tuscany's most photographed estates, serving simple lunches that change daily based on what's growing in their garden. You'll eat house-made salumi, local pecorino, and whatever soup they've made that morning, all sourced from the estate or neighboring farms within a few kilometers. The real draw is the terrace overlooking those perfectly aligned cypress trees that appeared in Gladiator, plus the rolling hills that define this corner of Val d'Orcia. The space feels authentically rustic without being precious about it: weathered wooden tables, mismatched chairs, and a handwritten menu that reflects whatever arrived fresh that morning. Service moves at countryside pace, which means you'll have plenty of time to soak in the view while nursing a glass of local Brunello. The food is honest and unpretentious, the kind of simple plates that taste better because of where you're eating them. Most people just snap photos of the cypress road and leave, missing this completely. The menu is limited but that's the point: they do a few things well rather than trying to please everyone. Expect to pay around 15-20 EUR for a light lunch with wine. Skip it if you want a full meal, but it's perfect for a leisurely break while exploring the area.

1 hourExplore

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