Turin · Centro & Piazza Castello

Farmacia del Cambio

An aperitivo bar in a former pharmacy with original 1920s cabinets and glass jars lining the walls.

About Farmacia del Cambio

An aperitivo bar in a former pharmacy with original 1920s cabinets and glass jars lining the walls. The cocktails use house-made infusions and bitters, and the aperitivo spread includes creative small bites rather than the standard chips and focaccia. The bartenders wear white lab coats as a nod to the pharmaceutical past.

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The place

Getting there

Address

Piazza Carignano, 2, 10123 Torino TO, Italy

Neighborhood

Centro & Piazza Castello →

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Good to know

Tips, answered

Try the house Vermouth del Cambio, made exclusively for this bar by a local producer, served with a single large ice cube.

Plan for about 1h 30m.

Farmacia del Cambio is in the Centro & Piazza Castello neighborhood of Turin. The address is Piazza Carignano, 2, 10123 Torino TO, Italy. The area is well-served by metro.

This works well at any time of day, though mornings tend to be quieter. Weekdays are less crowded than weekends.

Around the corner

Nearby in Centro & Piazza Castello

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Landmark

Piazza San Carlo

Piazza San Carlo serves as Turin's outdoor living room, where twin Baroque churches frame the southern end and cafes line elegant arcades that have hosted the city's social elite since the 1700s. You'll find yourself in a perfectly proportioned space where the bronze statue of Emanuele Filiberto commands the center, sword raised toward France after his military victories. The real draw is the cafe culture: historic spots like Caffè San Carlo and Caffè Torino still serve espresso at marble tables where writers, politicians, and locals conduct business. Walking into the piazza feels like entering a stage set where every element was designed for maximum elegance. The morning light hits the yellow ochre facades beautifully, casting long shadows across the geometric stone patterns underfoot. You'll notice how the arcades create natural gathering spots, with small clusters of people reading newspapers over cappuccinos or tourists studying maps. The twin churches of San Carlo and Santa Cristina create a sense of symmetry that makes photographers stop mid stride. Most guides oversell this as a major attraction when it's really best experienced as a coffee stop during a walking tour of central Turin. Skip the overpriced tourist cafes near the statue and head to the smaller spots under the western arcade where locals actually drink. The square gets packed during aperitivo hour (6pm to 8pm), so visit mid morning for the best atmosphere and photos. Expect to pay 1.50 EUR for espresso at the bar, 4 EUR if you sit at a table.

30 minutesExplore

Museum

Museo Egizio (Egyptian Museum)

The Museo Egizio holds the world's second largest collection of Egyptian antiquities, with 40,000 objects spanning 4,000 years. You'll see eight royal mummies, the complete intact tomb of architect Kha and Merit from 1400 BC, a 15-meter Book of the Dead papyrus, and the towering 3.17-meter black granite Ramesses II statue. This isn't just another dusty museum: the 2015 renovation created immersive chambers that replicate original tomb environments. You start in the ground floor's soaring gallery surrounded by colossal statues and sarcophagi, then work upward through chronologically arranged rooms. The Tomb of Kha recreation is extraordinary, every cup, chair, and jewelry piece positioned exactly where archaeologists found them in 1906. The lighting is theatrical but respectful, and interactive displays explain hieroglyphics and mummification without dumbing things down. Most guides push you through too quickly, but this collection deserves three hours minimum. Skip the basement storage displays and focus on floors one through three. The EUR 18 entry fee stings, but consider this rivals the Cairo Museum for quality. Book online to avoid weekend queues, and ignore the audio guide: the new wall texts are excellent and faster to navigate.

2-3 hoursExplore

Landmark

Palazzo Madama

Palazzo Madama stands as Turin's most architecturally schizophrenic building, with a soaring Baroque facade by Juvarra grafted onto a medieval castle that itself was built over Roman gates. Inside, the Museo Civico d'Arte Antica houses Italy's finest collection of decorative arts: think intricate ivory carvings, medieval manuscripts, and enough ornate furniture to fill a dozen palaces. The real prize is the rooftop terrace, which delivers knockout views across Piazza Castello to the Alps when the weather cooperates. You'll start in Juvarra's magnificent marble staircase, easily the most photographed spot here, before wandering through rooms that feel more like a collector's private home than a sterile museum. The medieval sections retain their fortress atmosphere with thick stone walls and narrow windows, while the Baroque rooms practically drip with gilt and crystal. The contrast is jarring and fascinating, like touring two completely different buildings that happen to share the same address. Most guides oversell the art collection, honestly it's good but not spectacular unless you're particularly into decorative arts. The combined ticket with Palazzo Reale costs €15 versus €10 for Madama alone, worth it if you're doing both. Skip the audio guide and head straight to the terrace first, then work your way down. Many visitors miss the medieval foundations in the basement, which are actually more atmospheric than half the fancy rooms upstairs.

2 hoursExplore

Museum

GAM - Galleria Civica d'Arte Moderna e Contemporanea

GAM houses Italy's finest collection of modern and contemporary art in a 1895 neoclassical palace that resembles a Parisian mansion more than a typical museum. You'll find Europe's best Futurist collection here, with explosive works by Balla and Boccioni that practically vibrate off the walls, plus exceptional pieces by Modigliani, de Chirico, and Fontana. The 45,000 works span from 19th-century Romanticism through cutting-edge Arte Povera installations, making this the definitive journey through Italian modernism. The experience flows well across three floors, starting with 19th-century salons on the ground level before ascending to modernist galleries. The second floor Futurist rooms feel electric, while the contemporary installations on the third floor provide breathing space and conceptual depth. The top-floor video art room creates an almost meditative atmosphere, and the sculpture garden out back offers a peaceful contrast to the intensity inside. Most visitors rush through the contemporary floors to reach the famous names, but you're missing the point. The lesser-known Arte Povera works upstairs are often more rewarding than the predictable Modigliani pieces. Entry costs €10 (€8 reduced), and Tuesday evenings until 22:00 offer the best experience with fewer tour groups and dramatic evening lighting. It is suggested to skip the audio guide at €5, the wall texts in English are excellent.

2 hoursExplore

Tour

Turin Chocolate and Aperitivo Tour

Turin invented the modern chocolate industry in the 19th century. The city had the technology (new grinding machines), the raw material (cacao from the Savoy colonies), and the chemistry talent to mix cacao paste with Piedmontese hazelnuts and create gianduja, the hazelnut chocolate that became the most replicated confection in the world. Ferrero is from Alba, 60 km south, and Nutella is the commercial descendant of gianduja. The serious chocolate tradition is in Turin's historic chocolate houses: Guido Gobino (the best, his Tourinot is the traditional gianduja shape, Via Lagrange), Baratti e Milano (historic patisserie on Piazza Castello, the hot chocolate is the city standard), Peyrano (the old-school house, the best dark chocolate). Turin also claims to have invented the aperitivo tradition: the combination of a vermouth-based drink and complimentary food that later became the spritz and the Negroni. A guided tour of chocolatiers and historic cafes runs EUR 35-55 per person for 2-3 hours.

2-3 hoursExplore

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