Strasbourg
Half-timbered houses on canals, tarte flambee in a winstub, Europe's tallest medieval spire, and the oldest Christmas market in France

About Strasbourg
Strasbourg is the city that proves borders are arbitrary. It has been French and German so many times that it stopped choosing and became both. The food is Alsatian, which means tarte flambee (the local flatbread with creme fraiche, onions, and lardons, EUR 10-14, thinner and better than any pizza), choucroute garnie (sauerkraut with five types of pork and sausage, EUR 16-22, a plate for cold weather and large appetites), and Alsatian wine (Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris, all from vineyards 30 minutes away on the Route des Vins). The winstubs (traditional Alsatian wine pubs) serve all of this in wood-panelled rooms that look like they have not changed since the 1800s, because they have not.
The Grande Ile is the city centre, a UNESCO World Heritage island surrounded by the River Ill. The cathedral has the tallest medieval spire in Christendom (142 metres, you can climb 332 steps to the platform for EUR 8, the view covers the Vosges mountains and the Black Forest) and an astronomical clock that performs at 12:30 PM daily (get there by noon for a seat). Petite France is the old tanners' quarter at the western tip of the island: half-timbered houses hanging over canals, covered bridges, and a density of photogenic corners that makes it impossible to take a bad picture. It is also the most touristed spot in the city, so go at 8 AM or after dinner.
Strasbourg in December is another city entirely. The Christkindelsmärik (Christmas market, running since 1570, the oldest in France) fills the Place Broglie and the cathedral square with 300 chalets selling vin chaud (mulled wine, EUR 4-5), bredele (Alsatian Christmas cookies), and handmade ornaments. The giant tree in Place Kléber, the lights, and the cold air turning your breath visible make this one of the best Christmas markets in Europe, and the Strasburgeois will tell you it is the best, period.
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Practical bits, answered
Tarte flambee (or flammekueche in Alsatian) is a thin flatbread cooked in a wood-fired oven with fromage blanc (a fresh white cheese), sliced onions, and lardons (bacon). It takes about 8 minutes in the oven and arrives at the table on a wooden paddle. You eat it folded. EUR 10-14 at a winstub, EUR 8-10 at a casual brasserie. Order two per person if you are hungry. The best version in Strasbourg is at Chez Yvonne (book ahead) or Maison des Tanneurs in Petite France. Any winstub serving it will be decent: this is not a dish that varies much between practitioners.
The Christkindelsmärik runs from the last Saturday of November to December 24. Book your hotel by September at the absolute latest: the city receives over 2 million visitors during the market season and good hotels sell out months ahead. Weekday evenings are manageable; weekend afternoons are very crowded. The market is excellent but it is not a secret: go with realistic expectations about the crowds and focus on the Place Broglie section which is slightly less visited than the cathedral square.
Yes. Colmar is 35 minutes by TER train (EUR 13 return). The Unterlinden Museum (EUR 13) contains the Isenheim Altarpiece by Matthias Grunewald, one of the most extraordinary paintings in existence. Even if you do not care about art, seeing it is an experience that stays with you. The Little Venice quarter in Colmar is smaller and arguably more intact than Petite France in Strasbourg. Half a day in Colmar is sufficient; a full day works if you add the wine route villages (Riquewihr is 20 minutes from Colmar by car).
The tram network (6 lines, EUR 1.80 single, EUR 5.20 day ticket) covers everything including the European Quarter and the main tourist areas. The Grande Ile itself is small enough to walk entirely in 30-45 minutes. The bike network (Velhop rental bikes, EUR 1/hour) is good for the European Quarter and Orangerie Park. Strasbourg is flat except for the hill up to Saverne road on the western edge.
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