Paris · Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Le comptoir du Relais

Legendary bistro by chef Yves Camdeborde serving market-driven French cuisine in a tiny space near Odéon.

About Le comptoir du Relais

Legendary bistro by chef Yves Camdeborde serving market-driven French cuisine in a tiny space near Odéon. The no-reservation lunch service and tasting-menu-only dinners have made this a pilgrimage site for serious food lovers.

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The place

Getting there

Address

9 Carr de l'Odéon, 75006 Paris, France

Neighborhood

Saint-Germain-des-Prés →

Nearest Metro

Saint-Germain-des-Pres (Line 4)Mabillon (Line 10)Odeon (Lines 4, 10)

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Good to know

Tips, answered

Lunch is first-come-first-served, so arrive before noon; dinner requires advance booking and features a set tasting menu only.

Plan for about 1h 45m.

Le comptoir du Relais is in the Saint-Germain-des-Prés neighborhood of Paris. The address is 9 Carr de l'Odéon, 75006 Paris, France. The area is well-served by metro.

This works well at any time of day, though mornings tend to be quieter. Weekdays are less crowded than weekends.

Around the corner

Nearby in Saint-Germain-des-Prés

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Tour

Catacombs of Paris

The Catacombs house the skeletal remains of over six million Parisians in a 1.7-kilometer underground network that was once limestone quarries. You'll walk through narrow tunnels lined with carefully arranged femurs, skulls, and tibias-the bone walls are stacked several meters deep in artistic patterns that took workers years to complete in the 1780s when overcrowded cemeteries were emptied. The route is one-way through cramped passages where you can't turn back once you start. The most striking section is the ossuary proper, where bones form decorative patterns and philosophical inscriptions are carved into stone. The skull arrangements are genuinely impressive-rows of empty eye sockets staring back at you from walls that stretch into darkness. The audio guide provides decent historical context about Paris's cemetery crisis. Book tickets weeks ahead online or you won't get in-the daily visitor limit is strict. The tour moves at a fixed pace through single-file passages, so claustrophobic visitors should reconsider. Skip the overpriced gift shop but don't miss the final room's ceiling made entirely of arranged leg bones. Most visitors rush through; take time to read the Latin inscriptions.

1.5 hoursExplore

Landmark

Church of Saint-Germain-des-Prés

This Benedictine abbey church really is Paris's oldest, with foundations from 558 AD, though what you see today is mostly 11th-century Romanesque stonework mixed with 19th-century Gothic revival additions. The flying buttresses and pointed arches in the choir are authentic 12th century, while the colorful ceiling frescoes by Hippolyte Flandrin were painted in the 1840s. The acoustics are genuinely exceptional thanks to the stone vaulting and careful proportions. The interior feels surprisingly intimate for such an ancient space. You enter through heavy wooden doors into a nave that's darker than most Paris churches, with thick Romanesque columns supporting rounded arches. The choir glows with jewel-toned stained glass, and Flandrin's biblical scenes wrap around the sanctuary in soft blues and golds. The marble columns flanking the altar are original 6th-century pieces salvaged from the earlier church. Most tourists rush through in ten minutes, but the real reward is sitting quietly in the wooden pews for at least twenty minutes. Skip the small museum in the sacristy unless you're deeply interested in medieval manuscripts. The Sunday evening concerts are legitimately special, but arrive thirty minutes early since seating fills up fast. Morning light through the east windows illuminates the frescoes beautifully between 10-11 AM.

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Family

Jardin du Luxembourg

This 57-acre garden centered around the Luxembourg Palace serves as Paris's most functional green space. You'll find senators heading to work alongside joggers circling the central gravel paths, while kids push wooden sailboats across the octagonal pond with long sticks. The geometric flowerbeds change seasonally, and over 100 statues of French queens and notable women line the terraces. The layout flows from formal French gardens near the palace to English-style landscaping toward the observatory. Families cluster around the playground and puppet theater on the south side, while serious chess players occupy the permanent stone tables near Boulevard Saint-Michel. The Medici Fountain creates a cool microclimate perfect for reading, though finding a metal chair requires patience during lunch hours. Most guidebooks oversell this as romantic when it's actually wonderfully practical. The tennis courts book up weeks ahead, so forget spontaneous games. Skip the crowded central lawn and head to the quieter western sections near the greenhouse. The apple orchard behind the palace produces fruit that gardeners sell each October - worth timing a visit around.

1-2 hoursExplore

Shopping

Le Bon Marché

Le Bon Marché occupies an elegant glass-and-iron structure that feels more like a refined mansion than a department store. The ground floor showcases luxury cosmetics and accessories under soaring ceilings, while upper floors house carefully selected ready-to-wear from both established and emerging designers. What sets it apart is the curation-you won't find fast fashion here, just thoughtfully chosen pieces that justify the higher price points. The shopping experience flows naturally from the main entrance on Rue de Sèvres through interconnected departments that never feel cramped or overwhelming. The lighting is soft and natural, staff genuinely knowledgeable rather than pushy, and the wide aisles make browsing comfortable even during busy periods. La Grande Épicerie next door operates like a luxury food hall, with vendors calling out samples and impeccably arranged produce that looks more like art installations. Most visitors spend too much time on the crowded ground floor cosmetics section when the real treasures are upstairs in home goods and lesser-known fashion labels. The food hall's prepared section gets picked over by lunch, so morning visits yield better selection. Skip the overpriced tourist items near the entrance-the quality purchases are deeper inside where prices actually become reasonable for what you get.

1-2 hoursExplore

Tour

Hammam Pacha

Hammam Pacha recreates an authentic Moroccan bathhouse experience in a surprisingly spacious basement space beneath Saint-Germain. The main steam room features genuine Tadelakt plasterwork and heated marble benches where temperatures hover around 45°C. What sets this apart from typical spas is the traditional kessa glove scrubbing - therapists really go at your dead skin with black soap made from olives and eucalyptus oil. The 2.5-hour ritual follows Moroccan tradition: you start sweating in the steam room for 15 minutes, then move to marble slabs where attendants scrub you down with coarse mitts until rolls of dead skin come off (genuinely satisfying but initially shocking). The argan oil massage happens in a separate cooler room, followed by mint tea in the relaxation area with proper glass cups and fresh leaves. The hot and cold pools are small but the temperature contrast works. The experience feels genuinely restorative, though the basement location means no natural light and ventilation can feel heavy during busy periods. Skip the expensive towel rental and bring your own - theirs are thin. The full package is worth it over individual treatments since you get extended access to all facilities. Staff pushes retail products hard at checkout, but the argan oil quality is legitimate if overpriced.

2.5 hoursExplore

Market

Marché Alimentaire Saint-Germain

The Marché Saint-Germain occupies a gorgeous 19th-century iron-and-glass structure that houses an unexpectedly modern mix of food vendors, chain stores, and a three-screen cinema underground. The architecture is the real star here – those soaring metal beams and glass panels create beautiful light patterns throughout the day. You'll find everything from a Monoprix to specialty cheese shops, plus that unusual swimming pool tucked into the basement. The covered halls feel more like an upscale shopping center than a traditional market, which can be jarring if you're expecting Les Halles-style chaos. The food vendors cluster mainly on the ground level – Eric Kayser bakery, a decent fishmonger, and several prepared food stalls that cater to the lunch crowd from nearby offices. The Sunday organic market outside transforms the entire experience, spilling quality produce vendors onto the surrounding streets. Honestly, it's more of a convenient neighborhood spot than a destination market. The prices run higher than you'd find at Marché des Enfants Rouges, and the selection feels limited compared to larger markets. Come for the architecture and maybe grab lunch, but don't expect the soul-stirring market experience you'll find elsewhere in Paris.

1 hourExplore

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