Paris · Belleville

Le Baratin

Unassuming neighborhood bistro in Belleville where chef Raquel Carena serves masterful French cooking without pretension.

About Le Baratin

Unassuming neighborhood bistro in Belleville where chef Raquel Carena serves masterful French cooking without pretension. The handwritten menu changes daily based on market finds, and the wine list is exceptional.

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The details

Practical bits

WalkingMinimal walking

The place

Getting there

Address

3 Rue Jouye-Rouve, 75020 Paris, France

Neighborhood

Belleville →

Nearest Metro

Belleville (Lines 2, 11)Menilmontant (Line 2)Couronnes (Line 2)

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Good to know

Tips, answered

Don't be put off by the modest exterior; this is where chefs eat on their nights off, and reservations are essential.

Plan for about 2h 15m.

Le Baratin is in the Belleville neighborhood of Paris. The address is 3 Rue Jouye-Rouve, 75020 Paris, France. The area is well-served by metro.

This works well at any time of day, though mornings tend to be quieter. Weekdays are less crowded than weekends.

Closed on Sunday, Monday. Check the official website for holiday closures and special hours.

Around the corner

Nearby in Belleville

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Park & Garden

Belleville Park

Parc de Belleville stretches up the hillside from Rue Julien Lacroix to Rue des Couronnes, rising 108 meters above sea level to offer the second-highest viewpoint in Paris. The terraced design creates distinct levels connected by cascading waterfalls that actually work year-round, unlike many Parisian water features. At the summit, a large open lawn provides unobstructed 180-degree views stretching from Montmartre to the Eiffel Tower. The climb up takes about 15 minutes if you enter from the bottom on Rue Julien Lacroix, following zigzagging paths through Mediterranean plantings and past the artificial waterfall system. The middle terraces have benches positioned specifically for different viewing angles, while the top level opens into a proper picnic area where locals spread blankets on weekends. The playground area near the entrance keeps families occupied while parents enjoy the lower viewpoints. This park gets genuinely busy on sunny weekend afternoons, so weekday visits are notably more peaceful. The views are actually better in winter when leafless trees don't obstruct sightlines, though you'll battle cold winds at the exposed summit. Skip the lower entrance if you're short on time-enter directly at Rue des Couronnes and walk straight to the top viewing area.

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Park & Garden

La Villette

Parc de la Villette is Paris's largest park, built on former slaughterhouse grounds with 35 red steel follies scattered across themed gardens. The Dragon Garden's 85-meter steel slide drops you through multiple levels while kids scramble over rope structures in the Acrobatic Garden. The Cité des Sciences sits at the north end with its reflective geodesic dome, while the striking zinc-clad Philharmonie anchors the south. The park feels more like a series of outdoor rooms than a traditional green space. You'll walk between geometric gardens on wide paths, past the submarine Argonaute and spherical IMAX theater. Summer brings outdoor film screenings on enormous inflatable screens where Parisians sprawl on blankets. The mirrors in the Garden of Mirrors create disorienting reflections that kids love but adults find gimmicky. Most visitors rush to the dragon slide and miss the quieter bamboo garden or the prairie section with actual wildlife. The park works best as a half-day adventure with kids or a picnic spot before evening concerts. Skip the expensive museum combo tickets unless you're genuinely interested in science exhibits. The southern entrance near Philharmonie has better Metro connections than the main Porte de la Villette entrance.

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Park & Garden

Parc des Buttes-Chaumont

Built on abandoned gypsum quarries, this park feels more like a mini mountain range than typical Parisian greenery. The centerpiece is a genuine 50-meter limestone cliff with the Temple de la Sibylle perched on top-Napoleon III's engineers carved this dramatic landscape from industrial wasteland. Below, an artificial lake feeds a 32-meter waterfall that crashes into a grotto you can walk behind. The ascent to the temple via winding paths takes about 15 minutes, passing the suspension bridge (rebuilt in 2007 after the original became too wobbly). From the temple, you get unobstructed views of Sacré-Cœur and Montmartre-better than many paid viewpoints. The park's hills and valleys create microclimates; the grotto stays cool even in summer, while the temple hill catches every breeze. Most visitors beeline for the temple and miss the best parts. The northeastern section has fewer crowds and better bird-watching along the stream. Skip the main entrance on Rue Manin during weekends-it's chaos with strollers. The park closes at sunset year-round, strictly enforced, so don't plan late picnics.

1-2 hoursExplore

Family

Cité des Sciences et de l'Industrie

The Cité des Sciences sprawls across five floors in what used to be an auction house for cattle, and honestly, it shows-the layout can be confusing. The permanent exhibitions vary wildly in quality: the space section with its Soyuz capsule replica is genuinely impressive, while the mathematics area feels dated with clunky interactive displays from the 2000s. The real draw is the children's areas, which are thoughtfully designed with water play stations, construction zones, and surprisingly sophisticated exhibits about light and sound. Your visit will involve a lot of walking and waiting. The building feels industrial and cold, with long corridors connecting different exhibition spaces. Crowds funnel through narrow passages between displays, and popular interactive stations often have queues. The Géode theater is striking from outside, but the IMAX films rotate frequently-check what's playing before paying extra. Weekend afternoons turn chaotic with school groups and families. Skip the temporary exhibitions unless the topic genuinely interests you-they're often overpriced add-ons. The submarine Argonaute outside is underwhelming for the separate admission fee. Focus your time on one or two sections rather than rushing through everything. If you have teenagers, they'll likely find most exhibits too childish or too academic, making this genuinely better for families with younger kids despite its reputation as a general science museum.

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Market

Les Délices de Belleville

Boulevard de Belleville transforms into a proper neighborhood market twice weekly, stretching nearly a kilometer with 80+ vendors selling everything from West African yams to Chinese vegetables to North African spices. The produce quality rivals Marché des Enfants Rouges but costs half the price - I regularly buy mangoes for €1.50/kg that would cost €4 elsewhere. The crowd is entirely local families doing their weekly shopping, with conversations flowing between French, Arabic, Chinese, and Bambara. The market flows downhill from Couronnes métro toward Belleville station, with fruit and vegetable stalls dominating the first section, followed by clothing, household goods, and prepared foods near the bottom. Around noon, fishmongers start packing ice around their remaining stock while produce vendors begin their discount calls. The smell of grilled merguez and fresh coriander hangs in the air as elderly Maghrebi women inspect tomatoes and Chinese grandmothers negotiate over bok choy prices. This isn't a browsing market - vendors expect you to buy, not photograph. The clothing section sells knockoffs and cheap basics that locals actually need. Focus on the food vendors between rue Julien Lacroix and rue des Couronnes for the best selection. Skip the prepared food unless you see locals eating it, and bring cash - most vendors don't take cards.

1-1.5 hoursExplore

Tour

Paris Canal

Two-hour boat journey along Canal Saint-Martin from Parc de la Villette to the Seine, passing through locks, swing bridges, and the atmospheric Bastille tunnel. The gentle cruise showcases a different side of Paris with tree-lined banks, local neighborhoods, and industrial architecture.

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