Paris · Bastille / Oberkampf

Aux Deux Amis

Tiny natural wine bar and bistro with a chalkboard menu that changes daily based on market finds.

About Aux Deux Amis

Tiny natural wine bar and bistro with a chalkboard menu that changes daily based on market finds. The cramped quarters and communal vibe make it feel like dining in someone's living room, with excellent small plates and a legendary wine list.

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The details

Practical bits

WalkingMinimal walking

The place

Getting there

Address

45 Rue Oberkampf, 75011 Paris, France

Neighborhood

Bastille / Oberkampf →

Nearest Metro

Bastille (Lines 1, 5, 8)Ledru-Rollin (Line 8)Oberkampf (Lines 5, 9)

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Good to know

Tips, answered

Arrive right at opening (7pm) to snag a spot at the bar since they don't take reservations, and trust the staff's wine recommendations.

Plan for about 1h 45m. Evening visits offer a different atmosphere with softer light.

Aux Deux Amis is in the Bastille / Oberkampf neighborhood of Paris. The address is 45 Rue Oberkampf, 75011 Paris, France. The area is well-served by metro.

Evening visits offer a unique atmosphere. The light is softer, crowds thin out, and the experience feels more intimate.

Closed on Monday. Check the official website for holiday closures and special hours.

Around the corner

Nearby in Bastille / Oberkampf

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Attraction

Parc zoologique de Paris

This isn't your typical cramped city zoo - the Parc zoologique de Paris sprawls across Vincennes with five distinct biozones that actually feel like different continents. The Patagonia section with its sea lions and penguins feels genuinely wild, while Madagascar's lemurs leap overhead in massive enclosures. The Grand Rocher dominates everything, housing giraffes whose heads appear at eye level when you reach the upper viewing decks. The layout flows naturally between biozones, though the African Savanna requires serious walking - it's genuinely huge with multiple viewing points for the lions. The greenhouse in Amazonia gets uncomfortably humid but the jaguars and manatees make it worthwhile. Kids lose their minds at the interactive elements, especially the underground viewing areas where you're literally inside the animal habitats. Skip the overcrowded weekend afternoons when strollers clog every pathway. The restaurant is overpriced cafeteria food - pack lunch and use the extensive picnic areas. Start with Patagonia for the feeding shows, then work counterclockwise to avoid backtracking. Budget four hours minimum; this place is massive and you'll be walking constantly on uneven terrain.

3-4 hoursExplore

Viewpoint

La Promenade Plantée

La Promenade Plantée transforms a defunct 1960s railway line into Paris's most inventive park, stretching 4.7 kilometers from Bastille to the edge of Bois de Vincennes. You'll walk through bamboo groves, rose gardens, and contemporary sculptures while staying elevated above busy streets. The first section runs along the beautiful Viaduc des Arts, where 50 brick arches below house working artisan workshops selling everything from handmade furniture to vintage posters. The experience shifts dramatically as you progress eastward. You start 10 meters above Avenue Daumesnil with sweeping views over Haussmanian rooftops, then descend to ground level where the path becomes wilder and more secluded. Tunnel sections create cool, echoing chambers filled with ferns and moss, while open stretches reveal unexpected urban gardens. The contrast between manicured western sections and the increasingly natural eastern portions makes this feel like several different parks connected by one continuous ribbon. Most guides oversell the entire length, honestly, the final kilometer through residential areas gets monotonous. The payoff is the first 2.5 kilometers from Bastille to Jardin de Reuilly, which captures all the best elements without the suburban slog. Skip the crowded weekend afternoons when families with strollers clog the narrow sections. The park is free, but bring water since there are limited fountains along the route.

1-2 hoursExplore

Cultural Site

Cour Damoye

Cour Damoye is a working artisan courtyard where furniture makers, sculptors, and small galleries still operate from 18th-century workshops. You'll find active ateliers behind weathered blue doors, with craftspeople restoring antiques and creating custom pieces. The cobblestone courtyard feels like a functioning museum where traditional skills survive in modern Paris. Entry costs nothing, and several small galleries sell affordable pieces from local artists. You enter through a narrow passage off busy Rue de Lappe that opens into complete tranquility. The contrast hits immediately: one moment you're dodging scooters, the next you're walking on centuries-old stones past ivy-covered workshops. Workshop doors often stand open, revealing cluttered interiors filled with wood shavings, half-finished sculptures, and tools that look unchanged since Napoleon's time. The sound of hand planes and chisels replaces traffic noise. Most travel guides oversell this as some magical secret, but it's simply a working courtyard that happens to be beautiful. Don't expect Instagram-perfect scenes: this is functional space first. The best time is Tuesday through Thursday afternoons when workshops are active but not overrun with curious tourists. Skip weekends when most ateliers close and the courtyard feels empty.

15-30 minutesExplore

Park & Garden

Coulée Verte René-Dumont

Paris pioneered elevated park design with this 4.7km green walkway built on a defunct 19th century railway line, inspiring New York's High Line decades later. You'll walk through bamboo groves and rose gardens suspended above street level, pass through atmospheric tunnels carved from old railway cuts, and emerge onto the tree lined Promenade Plantée that leads all the way to Bois de Vincennes. Below the brick arches, artisan workshops in the Viaduc des Arts let you watch glassblowers, furniture makers, and jewelry designers at work. The experience shifts dramatically as you move east from Bastille. You start elevated on the renovated viaduct, walking through what feels like a secret garden floating above the 12th arrondissement. The bamboo tunnel section around Avenue Ledru Rollin creates an almost tropical microclimate, while roses spill over the railings. After Place de la Bastille, the path drops to ground level and becomes more parklike, winding through residential neighborhoods with playgrounds and community gardens. Most guides treat this as one continuous attraction, but honestly, the magic happens in the first 2km on the elevated section. The ground level portion feels like any pleasant neighborhood park and takes forever to walk. Skip everything past Jardin de Reuilly unless you're specifically heading to Bois de Vincennes. The artisan shops below are hit or miss, many close unpredictably despite posted hours, so don't plan your visit around them.

1-2 hoursExplore

Market

Le marché couvert Beauvau

Le marché couvert Beauvau sits at the center of Place d'Aligre, where a traditional covered hall houses proper butchers, fishmongers, and cheese vendors who've been here for decades. The surrounding square fills with fruit vendors selling perfect mangoes for €1, North African spice dealers, and clothes stalls with jeans for €10. This is where locals from the 12th arrondissement actually shop, not tourists. The covered hall feels like stepping back thirty years - vendors call out prices in francs-era rapid-fire French while wrapping purchases in brown paper. Outside, the square buzzes with haggling in Arabic and French as vendors arrange pyramids of oranges and display racks of leather jackets. The east side transforms into a proper flea market with boxes of old postcards, tarnished silverware, and random electronics. Most guidebooks oversell the "authenticity" angle, but this place genuinely hasn't changed much despite Bastille's gentrification. The produce quality rivals Marché des Enfants Rouges at half the price. Skip the clothes unless you need basics - focus on the food vendors and arrive hungry. The covered section stays open until 1pm, but the outdoor action peaks between 9-11am.

1 hourExplore

Landmark

Rue Cremieux Khod

Rue Crémieux stretches just 144 meters between Avenue Ledru-Rollin and Rue de Lyon, but it's arguably Paris's most photogenic residential street. You'll find 35 terraced houses painted in soft pastels: mint green, powder blue, coral pink, and butter yellow. Built in 1865 as affordable workers' housing, these two-story homes now showcase wrought-iron balconies, wooden shutters, and flower boxes that residents maintain with obvious pride. Walking the cobblestones feels like stepping into a storybook, especially when morning light hits the facades. The street stays pedestrian-only, so you can wander freely and admire details like climbing ivy, vintage street lamps, and hand-painted house numbers. It's dead quiet except for the occasional resident heading to work or tending their plants. You'll spend most of your time here taking photos, trying to capture that perfect Instagram shot of the curved cobblestone perspective. Honestly, fifteen minutes is enough unless you're a serious photographer. The street gets absolutely mobbed between 10am and 6pm, turning this peaceful residential area into a tourist circus. Residents have posted multiple signs asking for quiet and respect, which many visitors ignore. Come early morning or evening when the light is better anyway, and you'll have the place mostly to yourself.

15-30 minutesExplore

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