Naples
The city that invented pizza, the Veiled Christ, Pompeii 35 minutes away, and chaos that makes you feel alive

About Naples
Naples is the city that invented pizza and does not care if you believe it. A margherita from a proper Neapolitan pizzeria costs EUR 5-7, takes 60-90 seconds in a 485°C wood-fired oven, arrives with a charred, pillowy cornicione and San Marzano tomatoes that taste like they were picked that morning, and will ruin every other pizza you eat for the rest of your life. This is not an exaggeration. Sorbillo, Da Michele, Di Matteo, and 50 Kalò are all within walking distance of each other.
The Cappella Sansevero is the most technically astonishing room in Italy: the Veiled Christ (Cristo Velato) by Sanmartino (1753) is a marble sculpture of the dead Christ covered by a marble veil, and the transparency of the marble fabric over the face has never been adequately explained. The National Archaeological Museum (EUR 18) holds the Farnese collection and all the objects recovered from Pompeii: the Alexander Mosaic (1.5 million tesserae, the battle of Gaugamela), the Farnese Hercules, the Secret Cabinet of erotic art. This is a better Roman collection than anything in Rome.
Naples is also the gateway to everything. Pompeii is 35 minutes by Circumvesuviana train. The Amalfi Coast starts at Sorrento (65 minutes). Capri is 45 minutes by hydrofoil. Mount Vesuvius is climbable. Give Naples at least two full days before you use it as a base, because the city is the meal, not the appetiser.
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From the blog
Practical bits, answered
Naples' reputation is 20 years out of date. The centro storico is safe for tourists with normal precautions. Watch for scooter bag-snatchers in the centro storico streets (keep bags on the building side, not the street side). Don't leave valuables visible in a parked car. Don't walk alone in the area directly around Stazione Garibaldi late at night. Everything else is standard city precautions. The Quartieri Spagnoli, the Rione Sanità, and the centro storico at night are all fine.
With your hands, folded into quarters (a portafoglio, or wallet fold). No knife and fork. Margherita or marinara are the classic orders. The correct toppings for a Neapolitan margherita are: San Marzano tomatoes, fior di latte or bufala mozzarella, fresh basil, a little olive oil. Nothing else. The cornicione (outer crust) should be pillowy, slightly charred, and soft. A properly cooked Neapolitan pizza has a wet centre.
Circumvesuviana train from Napoli Centrale (the train station). The Circumvesuviana platforms are at the lower level of the station, separate from the main Trenitalia platforms. Take the Sorrento line and get off at Pompei Scavi-Villa dei Misteri. Journey time about 35 minutes, EUR 3.60 each way. Site admission is EUR 18. Train frequency: roughly every 30 minutes. Return by 5 PM to avoid long queues at the site exit.
Sfogliatella riccia (the multi-layered shell pastry with ricotta filling, EUR 2-3, eat it hot, eat the riccia not the frolla). Pizza fritta (fried pizza, EUR 3-4, the street food predecessor to the baked version). Cuoppo (paper cone of mixed fried food, seafood or vegetable, EUR 5-7). Espresso standing at a bar (EUR 1-1.20, the Neapolitan method produces a slightly different result to standard Italian espresso). At a sit-down trattoria: rigatoni alla Genovese (beef and onion sauce, nothing to do with Genoa), paccheri al ragu napoletano (the proper Sunday sauce, slow-cooked for hours).
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