Milan · Porta Garibaldi & Corso Como

Antica Trattoria della Pesa

Operating since 1880, this trattoria in a former customs house serves massive portions of Milanese classics.

About Antica Trattoria della Pesa

Operating since 1880, this trattoria in a former customs house serves massive portions of Milanese classics. The cassoeula (pork and cabbage stew) is served only in winter, as tradition demands.

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The details

Practical bits

WalkingMinimal walking

The place

Getting there

Address

Viale Pasubio, 10, 20154 Milano MI, Italy

Neighborhood

Porta Garibaldi & Corso Como →

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Good to know

Tips, answered

Come hungry - portions are enormous and meant for sharing, especially the bollito misto cart.

Plan for about 1h 45m.

Antica Trattoria della Pesa is in the Porta Garibaldi & Corso Como neighborhood of Milan. The address is Viale Pasubio, 10, 20154 Milano MI, Italy. The area is well-served by metro.

This works well at any time of day, though mornings tend to be quieter. Weekdays are less crowded than weekends.

Closed on Sunday. Check the official website for holiday closures and special hours.

Around the corner

Nearby in Porta Garibaldi & Corso Como

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Shopping

10 Corso Como

This pioneering concept store transformed Milan's shopping scene by mixing high-end fashion with art, books, and dining in a converted garage space. You'll find carefully curated designer pieces from established and emerging brands, a serious art bookshop, rotating contemporary exhibitions on the third floor, and a gorgeous garden restaurant in the courtyard. It's not just shopping - it's more like wandering through fashion editor Carla Sozzani's personal vision of how retail should work. The space flows naturally from the ground-floor boutique through different rooms and levels, each with its own personality but cohesive aesthetic. The fashion selection feels personal rather than commercial, with pieces you won't find in department stores alongside cult accessories and design objects. The third-floor gallery genuinely surprises - serious contemporary art that changes every few months, completely free while you browse. The garden cafe in back creates an unexpectedly peaceful retreat from the Corso Como energy outside. Most visitors rush through the fashion floors and miss the bookshop, which stocks the best art and fashion titles in Milan. The restaurant gets busy at lunch (expect 25-30 EUR for a main course), but it's perfect for aperitivo around 6pm when the garden lighting kicks in. Skip the expensive accessories near the entrance - the real finds are upstairs where the curation gets more adventurous and the crowds thin out.

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Park & Garden

Biblioteca degli Alberi

Biblioteca degli Alberi transforms 22 acres of former industrial land into Milan's most sophisticated botanical experiment, with 135 tree species arranged in circular garden rooms that shift dramatically through the seasons. You'll walk through themed groves - Mediterranean oaks in one circle, Japanese maples in another, North American varieties in a third - while glass skyscrapers tower overhead. The contrast between cutting-edge botany and futuristic architecture makes this feel like stepping into a sci-fi movie where nature and technology actually coexist peacefully. The circular design means you can wander in any direction and discover something new - spring brings cherry blossoms and magnolias, summer offers dense canopies perfect for escaping Milan's heat, autumn explodes with maple colors you wouldn't expect in Italy. The wide gravel paths connect seamlessly between garden rooms, and elevated walkways give you treetop perspectives of both plants and the surrounding Porta Nuova skyline. Families spread picnics on the generous lawns while joggers loop the perimeter paths. Most travel guides gush about this place, but honestly, it's still maturing - many trees are young and the gardens need another decade to reach their full potential. The summer fitness classes are decent but get crowded, and weekend afternoons turn into outdoor office spaces for locals with laptops. Visit on weekday mornings for the best experience, and don't expect Kew Gardens - this is urban landscaping done very well, not a botanical wonderland.

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Cultural Site

Cimitero Monumentale di Milano

Milan's Monumentale Cemetery is where Italy's wealthy families competed to build the most spectacular tombs, creating an accidental sculpture park that rivals any museum. You'll walk past towering Art Nouveau monuments, miniature Gothic cathedrals, and modernist masterpieces by sculptors like Medardo Rosso and Giò Pomodoro. The centerpiece Famedio hall houses Italy's cultural elite - composer Giuseppe Verdi, novelist Alessandro Manzoni, and conductor Arturo Toscanini - under stunning Byzantine mosaics. The experience feels like wandering through a wealthy neighborhood frozen in time, where marble angels weep over forgotten industrialists and elaborate family chapels showcase century-old craftsmanship. You'll find yourself studying intricate bronze reliefs and Art Deco details that would be roped off in any museum. The Jewish section contains some of the finest early 1900s sculpture in Italy, while the newer areas show how modern artists approach memorial art. Most visitors rush through in 30 minutes, missing the real treasures scattered throughout the 250,000 graves. Entry is free, but the small guidebook (€3) helps identify the masterpieces among lesser works. Skip the crowded central avenue and explore the side paths where families still maintain elaborate private chapels. The morning light hits the marble beautifully, and you'll avoid the afternoon tour groups.

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Market

Mercato di Via Fauché

Mercato di Via Fauché is Milan's most authentic neighborhood market, operating since 1929 in a covered hall that serves locals rather than tourists. You'll find exceptional fresh produce, aged cheeses, whole fish displayed on ice, and cuts of meat that draw regulars every morning. The flower vendors outside add color, while surrounding stalls hawk everything from kitchen gadgets to regional Italian specialties shipped in from Sicily and Puglia. The atmosphere feels genuinely Milanese: elderly shoppers inspect tomatoes with surgical precision, vendors shout prices in dialect, and the smell of fresh herbs mingles with roasting porchetta. You'll navigate narrow aisles between stalls, dodging locals with wheeled shopping bags who know exactly where to find the best mozzarella. The pace picks up around 10am when office workers grab quick lunches before everything winds down by noon. Most food markets in Milan cater to tourists, but this one stays refreshingly real. Skip the overpriced items near the entrance and head straight to the back where prices drop significantly. The cheese selection rivals expensive delis at half the cost, particularly the aged parmigiano and fresh burrata. Come before 11am for the best selection, but don't expect English: vendors assume you're local and act accordingly.

1 hourExplore

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