Santorini · Perissa, Kamari & East

Metaxi Mas

Family-run tavern located inland in Exo Gonia village, far from the caldera crowds.

About Metaxi Mas

Family-run tavern located inland in Exo Gonia village, far from the caldera crowds. The menu features Santorinian recipes passed down through generations, including exceptional slow-cooked lamb and homemade fava. No sea view, but locals consider it the best traditional food on the island.

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The place

Getting there

Address

Exo Gonia 847 00, Greece

Neighborhood

Perissa, Kamari & East →

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Good to know

Tips, answered

Reservations are essential even in low season. Ask to be seated in the upstairs room with exposed volcanic rock walls.

Plan for about 1h 45m. Evening visits offer a different atmosphere with softer light.

Metaxi Mas is in the Perissa, Kamari & East neighborhood of Santorini. The address is Exo Gonia 847 00, Greece. The area is well-served by metro.

Evening visits offer a unique atmosphere. The light is softer, crowds thin out, and the experience feels more intimate.

Around the corner

Nearby in Perissa, Kamari & East

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Cultural Site

Pyrgos

Pyrgos sits 370 meters above sea level, making it Santorini's highest village and home to the medieval Franco Castelo fortress ruins. You'll climb through narrow cobblestone streets past whitewashed houses, blue-domed churches, and working windmills to reach the Kasteli summit. The 360-degree views stretch from the airport and eastern beaches to Oia's cliffs and the caldera, with vineyards carpeting the slopes below. Unlike touristy Oia, this feels like a real Greek village where locals still outnumber visitors. The walk up takes about 15 minutes through maze-like alleys barely wide enough for a donkey. Traditional houses cascade down the hillside, many converted into small galleries and cafes run by families who've lived here for generations. At the top, you'll explore Byzantine church ruins and Venetian fortification walls while the wind whips around you. The silence is striking after Fira's chaos, broken only by church bells and the occasional motorbike navigating the narrow streets below. Most visitors rush straight to the fortress and miss the village itself, which is a mistake. The best tavernas are halfway up the hill, not at the summit where prices jump 30% for the view. Selene Restaurant costs 80-120 EUR per person, while family-run spots like Metaxi Mas offer better food for 25-35 EUR. Skip the overpriced summit cafes completely and bring water, the climb is steeper than it looks and there's little shade.

2-3 hoursExplore

Beach

Perissa Beach

Perissa Beach stretches along Santorini's southeastern coast for an impressive 7 kilometers, making it the island's longest stretch of volcanic black sand. The dramatic landscape puts you right beneath Mesa Vouno mountain, with the ancient ruins of Ancient Thira visible on the cliff above. You'll find organized beach sections with sunbeds (EUR 15-25 including a drink), water sports rentals, and beach bars playing everything from Greek pop to electronic music. The beach has a distinctly relaxed, international vibe that feels more like a proper seaside resort than Santorini's posher spots. Groups of backpackers mix with Greek families, while beach volleyball games happen spontaneously near the water sports centers. The black sand gets scorching hot by midday, so most people stick to the sunbeds or rush quickly between towel and sea. The water stays surprisingly clear despite the dark sand, and you can walk out quite far before it gets deep. Most travel guides oversell this as a budget paradise, but sunbed prices have crept up significantly in recent years. The southern end offers genuinely free space if you don't mind walking 10 minutes past the last taverna. Skip the overpriced water sports here and save money for better operators in Kamari. The beach gets packed between noon and 4pm, so come early or late for a better experience.

3-4 hoursExplore

Tour

Santorini Volcano and Hot Springs Boat Trip

This boat trip takes you to two volcanic islets formed by Santorini's ongoing volcanic activity: Nea Kameni with its active crater and Palea Kameni with naturally heated sulfur springs. You'll hike 20 minutes across black volcanic rock to reach steaming vents where you can feel the earth's heat through your shoes, then swim in orange-tinted thermal waters that stay warm year-round. The boat ride itself offers unbeatable views of Santorini's caldera cliffs from sea level, something you can't get any other way. The experience starts with a slightly chaotic boarding process at either Fira's old port (reached by cable car or donkey) or the larger Athinios port. Once on the volcanic islands, the terrain is genuinely otherworldly: sharp black rocks, sulfur smells, and patches of ground hot enough to steam. The hot springs aren't like a spa, they're murky orange seawater warmed by underwater volcanic vents, and you'll need to swim about 30 meters from the boat to reach the warmest spots. Most tours cost between 15-25 EUR and feel rushed, giving you just 30 minutes on each island. The volcano hike is worth it if you've never seen active volcanic terrain, but skip this if you're expecting dramatic lava flows or crystal-clear hot springs. Go in the morning when it's cooler for hiking, and honestly, the boat ride and caldera views are often more impressive than the destinations themselves.

3-4 hoursExplore

Beach

Kamari Beach

Kamari Beach stretches along Santorini's east coast with distinctive black volcanic sand and crystal-clear waters that stay calmer than most island beaches. You'll find a fully organized setup with quality sunbeds (EUR 8-12), umbrellas, and a long paved promenade lined with tavernas serving fresh seafood and cold Assyrtiko wine. The real draw here is Cine Kamari, an open-air cinema where you can watch movies under the stars (EUR 8-10) while munching popcorn on actual beds. The beach has a relaxed, family-friendly vibe that's less party-focused than neighboring Perissa. You can walk the entire 5km stretch on the smooth promenade, stopping at beachfront bars for freddo cappuccinos or grabbing lunch at the many tavernas that actually serve decent food (unlike most beach restaurants). The black sand gets scorching hot by midday, so you'll want those sunbeds, and the water stays refreshingly cool even in August heat. Most people cluster near the central area where tour buses drop off, but this creates unnecessary crowds and higher prices. The southern end offers better sand quality, fewer umbrellas blocking your view, and you're closer to the Ancient Thira hiking trail if you want to combine beach time with ruins. Skip the overpriced cocktails at beachfront bars and stick to local tavernas like Sirocco for honest Greek food at fair prices.

3-4 hoursExplore

Museum

Ancient Thera

Ancient Thera sprawls across a windswept ridge 360 meters above the Aegean, delivering the best archaeological site on Santorini that most tourists skip. You'll walk through genuine Hellenistic streets lined with house foundations, peek into a 2,000-year-old theater carved into rock, and explore temple ruins dedicated to Apollo Karneios. The Byzantine church of Agios Stefanos anchors the eastern end, while a gymnasium complex shows how ancient Greeks actually lived and trained. The site feels authentically ancient rather than reconstructed, with original stone streets underfoot and walls rising to waist height in places. Wind whips constantly across the exposed ridge, carrying scents of wild thyme and creating an almost mystical atmosphere as you move between ruins. Information boards explain each structure clearly, though you'll want to bring sun protection since there's zero shade. The views stretch across both black sand beaches below, with Anafi island floating on the eastern horizon. Most guidebooks oversell this as essential, but it's genuinely rewarding if you enjoy ruins more than Instagram spots. The 5 EUR entrance fee feels fair for what you get, though the site lacks the drama of mainland Greek archaeology. Skip it if you're not genuinely interested in ancient history, but prioritize the theater area and eastern viewpoint if you do visit. The access road from Kamari takes 15 minutes but feels longer on the hairpin turns.

1.5-2 hoursExplore

Experience

Santorini Traditional Cooking Class

These cooking classes happen in authentic Cycladic houses where local families teach you to make real Santorini dishes, not tourist versions. You'll prepare tomatokeftedes using the island's tiny sweet tomatoes, fava santorinis (split pea puree that's nothing like Greek fava elsewhere), and proper moussaka with local cheese. Classes cost around 65-85 EUR and include wine pairings with Santorini's volcanic wines. The best instructors take you to source ingredients first, either at morning markets or their own gardens. You start by learning about Santorini's unique ingredients: cherry tomatoes that grow in volcanic soil, white eggplants, and caper leaves picked from clifftops. The cooking happens on traditional terraces with caldera views, and you'll use techniques passed down through generations. Your instructor will show you how to roll keftedes properly and why Santorini fava tastes completely different from what you get in Athens. The meal unfolds slowly over local wines while the sun sets. Most cooking schools are overpriced tourist traps, but family-run classes in Megalochori and Pyrgos deliver authentic experiences. Avoid anything advertised heavily online or costing over 90 EUR. Morning classes (starting 10am) work better than afternoon ones because you're not cooking in 35-degree heat. Ask specifically about using caper leaves and white eggplants, ingredients that separate real Santorini cooking from generic Greek food.

3-4 hoursExplore

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