Paris · Pigalle / South Montmartre

Cœur de breizh

A Breton crêperie on Rue des Martyrs, which means buckwheat galettes, salted butter and cider by the bowl.

About Cœur de breizh

A Breton crêperie on Rue des Martyrs, which means buckwheat galettes, salted butter and cider by the bowl. The fast, cheap version of lunch on the street, done properly.

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The place

Getting there

Address

53 R. des Martyrs, 75009 Paris, France

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Good to know

Tips, answered

Order a savoury galette and a sweet crêpe and share both. The cider comes in a bowl, not a glass, on purpose.

Plan for about 1 hour.

Cœur de breizh is in the Pigalle / South Montmartre neighborhood of Paris. The address is 53 R. des Martyrs, 75009 Paris, France. The area is well-served by metro.

This works well at any time of day, though mornings tend to be quieter. Weekdays are less crowded than weekends.

Around the corner

Nearby in Pigalle / South Montmartre

Tour

Moulin Rouge

The Moulin Rouge delivers exactly what you'd expect from Paris's most famous cabaret: a high-energy spectacle with 80 dancers, feathered headdresses, sequined costumes, and synchronized French cancan kicks that end with the girls flinging their legs impossibly high. The Féerie revue runs like clockwork with elaborate set changes, live orchestra, and production values that justify the hefty price tag starting at €87 for champagne seating. The experience feels wonderfully old-school theatrical. You're seated at small round tables in a red velvet theater while champagne flows and performers emerge from trapdoors, swing on aerial silks, and execute costume changes that seem physically impossible. The famous windmill blades actually turn during certain numbers, and the finale's cancan line stretches across the entire 20-meter stage. Honestly, it's touristy as hell but genuinely entertaining if you embrace the camp. The dinner show runs three hours and costs €215-€395, though many skip it for the shorter champagne-only performance at €87-€127. Avoid weekend shows if possible: they're packed with bachelor parties and the energy gets rowdy rather than sophisticated.

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Tour

Secret Food Tours Paris

Secret Food Tours Paris runs intimate walking tours through the backstreets of Pigalle and South Montmartre, focusing on artisanal producers who've been feeding locals for generations. Your guide-typically a food writer or chef-takes you inside family-run bakeries, century-old charcuteries, and specialty shops where the owners still work behind the counter. You'll taste everything from hand-rolled butter at Poilâne's smaller location to natural wines at caves that don't advertise. The 3.5-hour route winds through residential streets most tourists never see, stopping at six to eight establishments. Each visit involves genuine interaction with proprietors who explain their craft-the baker at Du Pain et des Idées demonstrates lamination techniques, while the chocolatier at Jacques Genin discusses bean sourcing. The pace is unhurried, with plenty of time for questions and photos of the production process. These tours work best for serious food enthusiasts rather than casual snackers. The group size stays under twelve, which means real conversations but also higher per-person costs than larger operators. Skip this if you're vegetarian-French charcuterie features heavily, and substitutions feel awkward. The Pigalle route covers more ground than advertised, so wear comfortable shoes and bring a small bag for purchases you'll inevitably make.

3.5 hoursExplore

Cultural Site

Rue des Martyrs

Rue des Martyrs stretches eight blocks uphill from Notre-Dame-de-Lorette métro to the foot of Montmartre, functioning as a working neighborhood artery rather than a tourist destination. You'll find proper Parisian commerce here: fromageries where locals debate cheese aging, wine shops with handwritten recommendations, and butchers who'll explain exactly how to cook that cut of lamb. The street serves residents from three arrondissements, creating an authentic slice of Paris commerce that feels unchanged since the 1950s. Walking uphill, each block shifts character subtly. Near the bottom, office workers grab quick lunches at corner bistros. Mid-street around Rue Saint-Georges, the pace slows as residential life takes over with mothers pushing strollers into épiceries and elderly residents chatting outside pharmacies. The bakeries release waves of butter and yeast scents that follow you between shops. By Rue des Abbesses, you're in full Montmartre territory with steeper inclines and village-like quiet between the commercial stretches. Most food tours skip this street entirely, which keeps it genuine but means fewer vendors speak English. Prices run about 20% less than tourist areas: excellent coffee costs €2-3, fresh croissants €1.20. Skip the restaurants, they're unremarkable. Focus on the food shops, especially Arnaud Delmontel bakery and the cheese shop at number 64. The walk takes an hour if you browse properly, but you could easily spend two hours tasting and buying provisions for an excellent picnic on Montmartre's slopes above.

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