Milan · Porta Venezia

Joia

Italy's first Michelin-starred vegetarian restaurant, run by chef Pietro Leemann for over 30 years.

About Joia

Italy's first Michelin-starred vegetarian restaurant, run by chef Pietro Leemann for over 30 years. Refined, creative dishes that prove fine dining doesn't need meat.

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The details

Practical bits

WalkingMinimal walking

The place

Getting there

Address

Via Panfilo Castaldi, 18, 20124 Milano MI, Italy

Neighborhood

Porta Venezia →

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Good to know

Tips, answered

The weekday lunch menu is more affordable at EUR 50-60 versus EUR 100+ for dinner tasting menus.

Plan for about 2h 15m.

Joia is in the Porta Venezia neighborhood of Milan. The address is Via Panfilo Castaldi, 18, 20124 Milano MI, Italy. The area is well-served by metro.

This works well at any time of day, though mornings tend to be quieter. Weekdays are less crowded than weekends.

Closed on Sunday, Monday. Check the official website for holiday closures and special hours.

Around the corner

Nearby in Porta Venezia

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Museum

Casa Museo Boschi Di Stefano

Casa Museo Boschi Di Stefano offers something rare in Milan - the chance to see how wealthy collectors actually lived with serious contemporary art. Antonio Boschi and Marieda Di Stefano transformed their elegant 1930s apartment into a showcase for 300 works by Italy's modern masters, including de Chirico's surreal landscapes, Fontana's slashed canvases, and Morandi's contemplative still lifes. You're walking through their actual home, with paintings hanging exactly where the couple placed them for daily enjoyment. The experience feels like visiting sophisticated friends who happen to own museum-quality art. You'll move through period rooms where rationalist furniture sits beneath avant-garde paintings, creating conversations between different artistic movements. The intimate scale means you can study each work closely - Sironi's urban scenes, Campigli's mysterious figures, and rare pieces by artists you've likely never heard of but should know. Nothing feels sterile or overly curated. Most art guides barely mention this place, which works in your favor since it's completely free and genuinely uncrowded. The volunteer guides are passionate and speak decent English, though you can easily appreciate everything on your own. Skip the small temporary exhibitions - the permanent collection in the original apartment layout is the real draw here.

45 minutesExplore

Shopping

Corso Buenos Aires

Corso Buenos Aires stretches 1.6 kilometers from Porta Venezia to Piazzale Loreto, packing over 350 shops into what's arguably Europe's longest shopping street. You'll find everything from Zara and H&M to smaller Italian boutiques, electronics stores, and gelato shops lining both sides of this pedestrian-friendly avenue. The street has a distinctly local feel compared to the tourist-heavy Quadrilatero della Moda, with Milanese families doing their weekend shopping alongside visitors hunting for deals. Walking the full length takes about two hours if you're browsing seriously, though you can easily spend half a day ducking into stores. The southern end near Porta Venezia feels more upscale, while the northern stretch toward Piazzale Loreto gets grittier with more electronics shops and casual dining. Metro stations at both ends make it easy to hop on and off, and the wide sidewalks handle crowds well even on busy Saturdays. Street performers and the occasional market stall add energy to the scene. Most guides oversell this as a shopping paradise, but it's really just a very long high street with predictable chain stores. The real advantage is practical: shops stay open until 8pm on weekdays when the rest of Milan shuts down at 7pm, and prices run about 20% cheaper than the designer district. Skip the northern third unless you need electronics, focus on the Porta Venezia end for the best mix of shops and cafes.

2-3 hoursExplore

Tour

Bergamo Day Trip

Bergamo is 50 minutes by train (EUR 6-8 each way) and has one of the most stunning upper towns in Italy. Citta Alta (Upper Town) sits on a hilltop surrounded by 16th-century Venetian walls (UNESCO) and is reached by funicular (EUR 1.40). Inside: Piazza Vecchia (one of the most beautiful squares in Italy), the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore (free, extraordinary interior), and Colleoni Chapel with its Renaissance facade. The lower town is modern and forgettable. Go straight to Citta Alta and stay there.

5-7 hoursExplore

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